Not tooooo long ago, just the other week— Autumn began with a real bang. September 22nd to be exact, the air felt a tad bit different. It was lighter, dryer and so crisp to the touch that during my morning woke, gazing across the hammock lined trees, I caught a wiff of the warm offshore winds to then check the 4-5 foot Surfline Forecast and knew that Fall had truly descended upon Hossegor.
With great amusement of the new seasons arrival, we proceeded to have ourselves quite a freakin’ day filled with friends and a foamie session that lasted through dusk. Calling out the set waves rolling in from the horizon, “Number 2 or Number 3!?!” I yelled out to our crew signaling the Fête de vag (party wave) about to commence. Out the back and with numbers of 6 foamiers, we set our lines jonesing to make the steep drop to reach the face. With Raff on my left, Benny on my right and Fraizer in between it was a race to the shore break and a battle of the boldest as we crisscrossed each other’s lanes and synchronized our surfing. Perched on the nose and roundhousing into each other, the high tide gifted perfect running rights that slanted across the shore. Each wave brought more joy than the next and onlookers all across the plage pointed and laughed in awe as the spectacle of our reckless fun was impossible to go unnoticed. Wave after wave the sun never seemed to set so slow that evening and for that— I thank it. I thank Autumn in Hossegor and I thank my big red foamie for the lift.
In light of all my giddiness, all this excitement and cheer I threw together a little SWSH playlist that has kept my head boppin’ and smile stylin' from ear to ear.